Trango Tower Expedition

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Great Tango Tower Expedition

The Group of Trango Towers offer some of the largest cliffs and most challenging rock climbing in the world. The highest point in the group is the summit of Great Trango Tower at 6286m. All of the Trango Towers lie on a ridge, roughly northwest-southeast, between the Trango glacier on the west and the Dunge glacier on the east. Great Trango itself is a large massif, with four identifiable summits, Main (6286m, South or Southwest 6250m, East 6231m and west 6223m).

It is a complex combination of steep snow/ice gullies, steeper rock faces, and vertical tooverhanging headwalls, topped by a snowy ridge system. Great Trango Tower was first climbed in 1977 by Galen Rowell, John Roskelly, Kim Schmitzand Dennis Hennek by the easiest route up the western side. The east face of Great Trango is the world's tallest vertical rock face, and was first climbed in 1984 by the Norwegians Hans Christian Doseth and Finn Dahli, who were killed on the descent.


Expedition to Trango Tower Gilgit Baltistan Pakistan

The 5000 foot Norwegian Buttress was the first route established on the massive East Face, which led to the first ascent of the East Summit (6231 meters). Nameless Tower is more featured than Great Trango with more cracks and possible lines. Routes on Nameless are approached from either the Trango or Dungee Glaciers, while Great Trango'swall routes are approached from the Dungee Glacier. Great Trango's approach is more serious and dangerous than the Nameless approaches. Government of Pakistan made open (free) to climb the peaks up to 6500M altitude without climbing permit (without paying royalty of peak), in order to promote the trekking and
mountaineering in Pakistan. These peaks are below 6500M and good opportunity to climb these spectacular peaks in the Karakorum..


DEPARTURE TIME Please arrive at least 2 hours before the flight.
Domestic Airfare Accommodations
Transportation Professional guide
Entrance fees
Guide gratuity


DAY 01:  Arrival at Islamabad. Transfer to hotel.
DAY 02 : Transfer to airport and fly to Skardu, overnight at hotel
DAY 03 : Paper working day in Skardu, overnight at hotel
DAY 04 : Briefing with Ministry of Tourism. Overnight at hotel.
DAY 05 : Drive to Askole by jeep, overnight camping
DAY 06 : Trek to Jhula, overnight camping
DAY 07 : Trek to Paiyu, overnight camping
DAY 08 : Rest day at Paiyu, overnight camping
DAY 09 : Trek to base camp of Trango Tower/Nameless Tower
DAY 10-27 : 18 days climbing period to Trango Tower/Nameless Tower
DAY 28 : Trek back to Paiyu, overnight camping
DAY 29 : Trek back to Jhula, overnight camping
DAY 30 : Trek back to Askole, overnight camping
DAY 31 : Drive to Skardu by Jeep and transfer to hotel, overnight hotel.
DAY 32 : Drive to airport and fly back to Islamabad and transfer to hotel.
DAY 33 : Free day in Islamabad, overnight at hotel.
DAY 34 : Transfer to airport and fly back to home



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